几乎是一夜未眠。 入住布洛湾酒店的时候,已经是晚上八点多了。西伯利亚冷空气越过台湾海峡,使花莲地区的最低温度骤然降至罕见的10度左右。空里飘着小雨,淅淅沥沥的。没有风的呼啸,也没有鸟的鸣叫,这就更使此时布洛湾的夜幕显得格外深沉而凝重。
别具一格的布洛湾酒店就坐落在太鲁阁国家森林公园怀抱的深处。
酒店不大,但是精致如雕。一律木制结构的厅堂里,摆满了许许多多各种各样表现不老族历史的图腾雕刻物件,或脸谱,或射猎状,或男耕女织造型,表情各异,丰富至极。这些林林总总的“艺术”,有的仅仅是装饰品,有的则可以对客人出售而为纪念。也许是不大的厅堂里因为有了这种厚重历史的装点,从而给人一种深邃而阔大的感觉。
其实,无论是从空中还是在陆地审视布洛湾酒店,给人的印象都是太阔大太深邃太壮观太美丽了。数百米高的大山三面而就,如端坐的一位健壮汉子将一个娇小女孩般的布洛湾酒店揽在怀里。环立的大山如劈似削,直刺苍穹,丰富的物种植被郁郁葱葱,严严实实地覆盖着怪石林立的山体,同时也为人类酿造着天然氧吧,让至此的人们惊讶不已感叹不已兴奋不已。
布洛湾酒店的设计不是一般的独具匠心。别致的布洛湾虽然只有几十个住人的客房,却也是一律的木制结构。来人顺着三五级的台阶而上,便见一溜摆开的平房。房间虽然不怎么宽敞,但是也如人意。没有床,干净的木板地上就是褥被茶几什么的,给人一种不错的舒适的感觉。许是由于疲惫或者冬雨的缘故,布洛湾的人们大都早早地就有了些睡意诞生。
却是难眠的。
静静地仰望着小木屋,听着小雨急一阵慢一阵地降落,听着大珠小珠落玉盘,就有了许多别样的画面⋯⋯
1986年成立的太鲁阁国家公园是台湾惟一入选“世界文化遗产”的自然景观。整座公园以太鲁阁峡谷、立雾溪流域以及东西横贯公路东段沿线为主体,并且涵盖南湖中奇莱连峰、合欢山群、太鲁阁大山、清水断崖、三栈溪流域。应该说,这个范围还是比较大的,东起于清水,西迄合欢西峰,南及奇莱连峰、北至南湖大山,总面积达到了九万两千多公顷。
许多人都有这样的感觉,秀丽的太鲁阁国家公园无疑为宝岛的秀丽增添了一笔浓浓的光彩。
人间仙境般的太鲁阁国家公园是以高山和峡谷为主要地形特色的,其中立雾溪河谷景色极秀,河涧怪石如磨,似人非人,似物非物,而河水则清澈得如蓝凝滞。两岸又都是由大理石构成的岩层,年代久远,石层丰富,令人惊讶不已,于是人们又称立雾溪河谷为大理石峡谷。
而国家公园内的游憩资源大都分布在中横公路东段沿线,诸如长春祠、太鲁阁峡谷、九曲洞、清水断崖以及景色清新的娃娃谷,如今都已经是令人流连忘返的著名风景。
当然,太鲁阁国家公园的诱人之处还在于它那原始森林的面积广阔和生态环境的异样复杂。太多太多的稀有生态资源,比如山椒鱼啦,莫氏树蛙啦,还有台湾黑熊、台湾猕猴猪、台湾穿山甲、山羌、水鹿、长鬃山羊什么的,细数起来,不下百种。而植物则如云杉林、台湾芦竹、冷杉林、箭竹草原、玉山圆柏及铁杉林等极其珍奇的植物,更是公园的“美女成员”。
太鲁阁公园的植被之所以丰厚而出众,可能与这里的气候有着密切的关系。多雨的天滋润着喜雨的太鲁阁。
雨季里沐浴的太鲁阁是十分秀丽的。
夜,已经越来越深。淅淅沥沥的小雨却突然变得急骤了起来。没有雷声,也没有闪电,接近规则的乒乓乒乓的雨点用力击打着屋顶,犹如金戈铁马由远而近奔驰而来。
其实,20世纪60年代修筑的横贯东西公路就是这种金戈铁马的壮丽场面。10万名官兵的汗水抛洒及至200多名生命的捐献才有了现在的通途,才有了壮观的九曲洞。当然也随之有了现在的长春祠,以及在此安息的灵魂。台湾人民不会忘记他们,九曲洞不会忘记他们,大山也不会忘记他们,太鲁阁更不会忘记他们。也许此地此时的风里雨里就有他们的吟唱之音。对这种声音,布洛湾是熟悉的,不老族的图腾是熟悉的,到过布洛湾的人们是熟悉的,因为它给人的印象太深太深⋯⋯
I stayed up almost all the night.
It was after eight o’clock in the evening when I checked in at Buluowan Hotel in Taiwan. The cold air from Siberia crossed the Taiwan Strait and abruptly reduced the temperature of Huanlian to 10 degrees centigrade. Light in the air made people feel depressed. Without the wind howling and the birds chirping, the night of Buluowan seemed to be very somber.
The characteristic Buluowan Hotel is located deep within the Taroko National Park.
Despite being not big, the hotel is elegant. In the wooden-structure lobby, there are displayed various carved totem articles showcasing the history of the Bulao Nationality. The facial makeup, the hunting scenes, and the men tilling and women weaving, have diversified expressions, which are not only used for decoration, but also for sale to the guests as souvenirs. Due to the historical style decoration, the small lobby makes you feel it is deep and vast.
Looking at Buluowan Hotel either from the air or the land, one will feel it magnificent and beautiful. The hotel is surrounded by mountains on three sides, looking like a little gird embraced by a strong man. The lofty mountains are covered by dense plants, which also provide a natural oxygen bar for people and makes the tourists here excited.
The design of Buluowan Hotel is unique. The wooden-structure hotel rooms can only accommodate a few dozen guests. In the room, there are no beds. The quilts and mattresses on the floor make you feel very comfortable.
The Taroko National Park established in 1986 is the only nature site in Taiwan that has been chosen as a World Natural Heritage by UNESCO. The entire park is made up of the Taroko Canyon, Liwu Brook and the eastern section of the east-west highway.
The rich plants covering the Taroko National Park are closely related to the rainy climate here.
In the 1960s, 100,000 military officers and soldiers devoted themselves to construction of the east-west highway, more than 200 of whom lost their lives in the tough construction work. So the Taiwan people will never forget them, the local scenic sites will never forget them, the mountains will never forget them and the Taroko National Park will never forget them.